Everything You Need to Know About Beauty Oils

Beauty oils are oils obtained from specific parts of oil-bearing plants such as seeds, fruits, or roots. Beauty oils are known as fixed oils, because, unlike essential oils, they are non-volatile, meaning they do not evaporate. They may also be referred to as carrier oils because they often serve as vehicles and diluting agents for essential oils. Although most Beauty oils could be applied undiluted, they are often part of a blend or are incorporated into a formula in which they make up most of the oil phase alongside butters and waxes.

Beauty oils are extremely beneficial for skin and offer multiple benefits, such as improving skin texture, preserving moisture, preventing wrinkles, and protecting skin from environmental stressors.

Even though many Beauty oils are known for their broad cosmetic use, a lot of them are also culinary or gourmet oils; examples are olive oil, hazelnut oil, avocado oil, and sesame oil. Also, because of their packed benefits, some of them are taken internally as supplements to improve general health or aid in alleviating certain medical conditions, such as using evening primrose oil to treat menopause symptoms.

EXTRACTION METHODS

Whether they are destined for culinary use (food grade) or cosmetic formulations (cosmetic grade), it is important to inquire about the extraction method of these oils. The use of heat as part of the hydraulic extraction process can jeopardize the polyunsaturated acids in the oil and expose them to oxidation, thus stripping them of their benefits. Also, the use of solvents such as hexane or rubbing alcohol can contaminate the final product and yield less pure oil.

Cold- and expeller-pressed oils are preferred because the oil is unaltered and its properties better preserved. Expeller-pressing methods do elevate oil temperature but not enough to threaten the oil quality. Nevertheless, cold-pressed remains the gold standard and is the best method of oil extraction.

Refining is another process that can alter the state of the final oil. It employs various methods, such as flash heating, winterization, and deodorization, to produce a refined oil that has altered properties.

Most Beauty oils called for in this book are available at local grocery stores, specialty shops, and online. You can use a garlic press to extract tiny amounts of oil from nuts such as almonds, walnuts, and hazelnuts.

COMMONLY USED VEGETABLE OILS

Acai Oil

Acai is a berry-like fruit produced by South American acai palm trees, Euterpe oleracea. The oil is rich in antioxidants and key elements that play important roles in skin metabolism, such as anthocyanins, phytosterols, phenols, and vitamins B, C, and E. The main two essential fatty acids present in the oil are oleic and linoleic acids, oleic acid accounting for an average of 50 percent of the total fatty acids in the oil, and linoleic acid around 40 percent. It is also rich in essential amino acids and minerals such as iron, calcium, phosphorus, and potassium. A very generous source of antioxidants, it is indicated to prevent free-radical formation and is especially recommended for aging skin. It penetrates the skin quickly and is highly moisturizing. Aأ§aأ­ berry oil has anti-inflammatory properties, making it a suitable additive to creams and lotions intended for patients with eczema.

Almond Oil

Almond oil is obtained from the dry kernels of the almond, Prunus amygdalus. Also referred to as sweet almond oil, this light oil absorbs quickly and does not clog pores. It is suitable for most skin types and is used as a moisturizer. Found in a great number of products, almond oil is high in vitamins E and A. It is extremely rich in oleic acid (up to 86 percent) and also in linoleic acid. It is also full of antioxidants such as quercetin, quercitrin, kaempferol, and morin. Quercetin and kaempferol, in particular, are thought to offer some sun-protective effects, which are an added benefit in sunscreens. Almond oil can be used as-is or mixed with other oils when making skincare formulations.

Apricot Oil

Apricot oil is produced from the kernel nuts of the apricot fruit, Prunus armeniaca. The oil is also called apricot kernel oil. This thin oil spreads easily absorbs quickly and doesn't clog pores. It is rich in vitamin A, which helps fight skin aging. Oleic acid is the predominant fatty acid in apricot oil, but linoleic acid is also present in significant amounts. With uses similar to those of almond oil, it is recommended mainly for dry, mature, and sensitive skin. Use apricot oil as is or dilute with other carrier oils to a 20 / 50 percent ratio.

Argan Oil

Very popular in Morocco, argan oil comes from the kernels of the rare argan tree, Argania Spinosa. Besides its culinary uses, it has long been incorporated into cosmetic preparations. It has many benefits for both skin and hair. This ancient staple item of the hammam (Turkish bath) tradition, as an ingredient in mud masks and soaps, is now gaining popularity all over the world although it is produced in limited quantities. Rich in skin-rejuvenating elements, argan oil is an excellent anti-aging oil; it is high in vitamin E and oleic and linoleic acids and contains squalene and carotenes. It can also help improve the appearance of scars. People with acne-prone skin should use this oil with care to avoid breakouts. Highly nourishing, argan oil adds luster and shine to dull hair.

Avocado Oil

Avocado, Persea Americana, is the richest in vitamin E, among all fruits. It is also rich in skin-benefiting fatty acids and other antioxidants. It is high in vitamins A, B1, B2, and B5. Particularly high in sterols, avocado oil is a good collagen stimulator that can also reduce the prevalence of age spots. Even though it contains much more omega-6, the omega-3 acids it contains can provide some protection for the skin from free radicals. It is therefore among the oils to incorporate in sunscreen formulas. It is a strong moisturizer, a powerful skin emollient that hydrates the squamous skin cells, and a powerful anti-aging oil. Because of its thick texture, avocado oil is a great choice for dehydrated and mature skin. It is also indicated for itchy skin. Even though it is well absorbed through the skin, it does leave an unpleasant greasy residue. It is therefore diluted with lighter carrier oils, such as almond oil, to a final concentration of 10“20 percent, avocado to almond oil.

Black Raspberry Seed Oil

From the seeds of the black raspberry fruit, Rubus occidentalis, this greenish, cold-pressed oil is a great source of antioxidants and has an interesting composition of essential fatty acids: 85 percent of the oil is essential fatty acids, 30 percent of which is the highly prized omega-3. This is a dry oil that absorbs quickly and does not clog pores. Extremely rich in various phytonutrients and antioxidants, it contains four kinds of vitamin E: alpha and gamma tocopherols, in addition to beta and gamma tocotrienols. Although it could be used undiluted, the recommended usage level is 1“5 percent concentration, especially for mature skin to fight the signs of aging.

Blackberry Seed Oil

Pressed from the seeds of blackberry fruits, Rubus fruticosus, blackberry seed oil is rich in vitamin C, a skin-rejuvenating vitamin and a skin brightener. It also contains other antioxidants, such as vitamin E, phytosterols such as beta-sitosterol, and both lutein and zeaxanthin. The oil is up to 90 percent unsaturated fatty acids, 20 percent of which is omega-3. Blackberry seed oil is mostly recommended for blemished, sun-damaged skin, as well as for aging skin to prevent wrinkles. It has the advantage of being stable and can be included in serums and creams with a typical concentration of 1“5 percent.

Blackcurrant Seed Oil

Blackcurrant seed oil is obtained from the seeds of Ribes nigrum, also known as cassis. This oil can contain up to 20 percent omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids, as well as up to 14 percent omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids. Blackcurrant seed oil is recommended to rejuvenate thinning hair and has anti-inflammatory properties that calm dry, scaly skin. Typical concentration is 1“5 percent.

Blueberry Seed Oil

From the seeds of Vaccinium corymbosum, this powerful oil is very rich in antioxidants that help protect skin from free radicals, sun damage, and aging. It can be used at a 1“5 percent concentration and is a great oil to include in facial serums.

Borage Seed Oil

Borago officinalis seeds are the highest in gamma-linolenic acid (up to 24 percent of the oil), an unsaturated fatty acid that helps prevent sun damage and fights premature skin aging. This oil also contains some precious vitamins and minerals. Mix with other carrier oils and use at a 5“10 percent dilution for the regeneration of mature skin.

Camelina Oil

From Camelina sativa, this oil is often referred to as false flax or wild flax, but it has the advantage of being more stable than flaxseed oil. Camelina oil is rich in vitamins, omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (mainly ALA), and antioxidants. It is used for both skin and hair.

Camellia Seed Oil

This tea oil, from Camellia-Oleifera, is light and absorbs quickly into the skin. It is high in oleic acid (up to 85 percent) and is especially recommended for dry, mature skin. It is suitable for most skin types, including acne-prone and sensitive skin. Rich in antioxidants, it is also a beneficial oil for nails and hair. You could think of it as part of an after-sun oil or even a makeup remover. Recommended usage is in a 2“12 percent dilution.

Carrot Oil

Carrot oil is extracted from the carrot plant, Daucus carota. It is rich in vitamin E and carotenes, beta-carotene being a precursor of vitamin A, which is proven to help skin appear younger, minimizing the appearance of wrinkles. Dilute carrot oil with other oils to a 2“5 percent final concentration and limit its use during pregnancy.

Castor Oil

From castor beans (Ricinus communis), castor oil is extremely rich in monounsaturated fatty acid ricinoleic acid. Even though the thick, somehow sticky texture of this oil is not cosmetically appealing, castor oil has some benefits to offer: It is a powerful humectant and anti-aging oil and is also thought to promote healthier, fuller, and longer eyelashes. It is also considered by many as a good treatment for healing skin blemishes, improving the appearance of scars, and reducing skin discoloration. This oil has toxic properties; when ingested, it acts as a powerful laxative and is contraindicated during pregnancy. Use diluted with other carrier oils to improve its cosmetic appeal.

Cherry Seed Oil

From the seeds of cherries, Prunus cerasus, this oil is very similar in properties to almond and apricot kernel oil. It is high in oleic acid and vitamins A and E. Cherry seed oil is a gentle moisturizer that can provide generous amounts of antioxidants. It is particularly recommended for oily skin where some astringency is useful. Research suggests that cherry seed oil can protect skin from sun damage, which is why it is an added benefit when included in sunscreen formulations.

Coconut Oil

From the coconut tree, Cocos Nucifera, this edible oil is gaining popularity due to its many benefits for both skin and body. Pure virgin coconut oil liquefies when applied to the skin and is quickly absorbed without clogging pores. It is said to have antimicrobial properties. It is also rich in antioxidants and possesses anti-aging properties.

Cranberry Seed Oil

From the seeds of Vaccinium macrocarpon, this very rich oil is reported to have the highest content of vitamin E among vegetable oils. It also has a high content of omega-3 and omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids and is rich in phytosterols (which help lower cholesterol when ingested in foods). Phytosterols can help slow collagen destruction and even promote new collagen formation. This oil also contains vitamin A, which helps rejuvenate skin and tame wrinkles.

Cranberry seed oil is high in antioxidants; it provides protection from UV-induced free radicals and is a powerful skin moisturizer. It has a medium texture and absorbs quickly. Recommended usage is in a 5 percent dilution, though some formulations could contain more. It can also be added to hair care products to strengthen and moisturize hair. Because of its more stable shelf life, it can be added to other oils to increase their stability.

Cucumber Seed Oil

From the seeds of Cucumis sativus, this oil is rich in phytosterols, which protect the skin elasticity and preserve the lipid barrier, thus promoting a better-moisturized skin. Cucumber oil is high in vitamin E, which acts as an antioxidant and fights free radicals. It helps achieve more youthful skin, with a reduction in wrinkles. Linoleic acid is more predominant (up to 60 percent) in this oil than oleic acid and other polyunsaturated acids. Cucumber seed oil is recommended for aging skin, as well as for dry, irritated skin. Use it in a 10“25 percent concentration to moisturize, soothe sunburns, and prevent stretch marks.

Evening Primrose Oil

From the flower Oenothera biennis, this medicinal plant has benefits to offer in many areas, including premenstrual syndrome, menopausal hot flashes, chronic headaches, and migraines. Very close to borage seed oil, evening primrose oil is extremely rich in GLA (gamma-linolenic acid, up to 9 percent), which is responsible for most of the benefits it offers. At the skin level, evening primrose oil provides anti-aging effects and helps clear rosacea and acne. This oil is especially recommended for mature skin, as well as for irritated skin. It can also contribute to healthier hair and nails.

Flaxseed Oil

This oil comes from the seeds of the flax plant, Linum-usitatissimum. Numerous properties are associated with this increasingly popular oil, whether it is used internally (ingested) or externally (on hair and skin). Flaxseed oil is high in omega-3 ALA, an essential fatty acid. The content of ALA in flaxseed oil ranges from 52 percent to 63 percent and is, therefore, the highest among vegetable oils. This oil has anti-inflammatory properties and is an important ingredient for aging skin. Flax seeds contain lignans, a type of phytoestrogen known to have antioxidant properties. Extraction of the oil can contribute to the loss of those lignans unless they are added at the end of the process. Flaxseed oil is highly susceptible to oxidation; thus, adding it to formulations requires preservation with other antioxidants such as vitamin E. It becomes rancid within weeks; store it in the refrigerator to slow its oxidation.

Grape Seed Oil

From the seeds of Vitis vinifera, the common grapevine, this thin oil is rich in antioxidants. It absorbs quickly and is, therefore, a good choice for oily skin and whenever oily residues are to be avoided. It can be used full strength or diluted with other oils. Add it to facial serums and other skin preparations at a 1“3 percent level. It makes a good base for preparations when nut allergies are a concern.

Hazelnut Oil

Pressed from the seeds of Corylus avellana, this astringent oil is one of the best oils for acne-prone skin. It is also thought to be beneficial for thread veins. Recommended mainly for oily skin types, it can be incorporated into formulas with a 10 percent dilution, up to 100 percent of the oily phase. It is also added to many sunscreens because it may have sun-filtering capability.

Hemp Seed Oil

This oil comes from the plant Cannabis sativa. With a composition similar to that of the skin natural lipids, this dry oil is light and leaves no thick, oily film when applied. Because it is very rich in polyunsaturated acids (80 percent), it needs to be stored in dark or amber bottles away from sunlight and heat to protect those unsaturated acids from oxidation and thus spoilage of the oil. Hemp seed oil is especially recommended for dry and mature skin. It can be used for as low as 2.5 percent of your formulation; increasing the concentration to 10 percent will generate more benefits for the skin.

Jojoba Oil

Pressed from the seeds of the jojoba plant, Simmondsia Chinensis, this golden oil resembles natural skin oils. It is low in polyunsaturated fatty acids and high in tocopherols (vitamin E), which helps it resist rancidity and why it is preferred among carrier oils. Its properties are those of both an oil and a liquid wax, and it is sometimes referred to as liquid wax.

This skin-friendly oil is a good choice for all skin types. It improves skin softness and moisture and can help reduce fine lines. It is a great addition to both skin and hair products. It can be used as a 100 percent oil base or diluted to lesser concentrations. It is specifically recommended for acne-prone skin because it helps balance skin oils and break down sebum in clogged pores. It also makes a good base for scalp oils.

Kukui Nut Tree Oil

This oil is not very popular around the world but has long provided the inhabitants of Hawaii Island with numerous benefits. The kukui nuts from Aleurites moluccana, known as the candlenut tree, among other names, are pressed to obtain this oil. Rich in linoleic acid and ALA, the oil is a great moisturizer, helping relieve chapped skin and minimize skin irritation.

Macadamia Oil

This oil is pressed from the nuts of the macadamia tree, Macadamia integrifolia. It is stable because of its high content of monounsaturated fatty acids. It is high in palmitoleic acid, which gives it antioxidative properties. It absorbs quickly, protects skin, and is beneficial for scar reduction and sunburns. This regenerative oil is suitable for dry, mature skin, as well as for all skin types.

Neem Oil

This oil comes from the neem plant, Azadirachta indica. It is used in hair preparations to strengthen hair and improve shine. This strongly scented oil is also used for its antibacterial, antiparasitic, and insect repellent powers.

Olive Oil

Cold-pressed from the fruits of the olive tree, Olea europaea, this Mediterranean edible oil is also a great asset in making beauty products. Because it is a little thicker than other oils, it is more suitable for dry skin. It is high in oleic acid, absorbs quickly yet allows the skin to breathe, and doesn't clog pores. Rich in the antioxidant, anti-aging vitamin E and vitamin A, olive oil is beneficial as a skin softener, moisturizer, and soother for irritated skin. Use it undiluted as a massage oil or incorporate it into your formulations at a 10 percent ratio.

Peach Kernel Oil

Extracted from the kernels of peaches, Prunus persica, peach kernel oil is very close to apricot kernel oil. It also makes a valid substitute for almond oil or grapeseed oil. Use undiluted or include in your formulations at a 5“10 percent ratio.

Plum Kernel Oil

This oil comes from the kernels of plums, Prunus domestica. This golden oil is rich in vitamins E and A and antioxidants. Oleic and linoleic acids are the two most prevalent fatty acids of this oil. Its uses are similar to those of almond and apricot kernel oils.

Pomegranate Seed Oil

This oil is obtained from the seeds of the pomegranate fruit, Punica granatum. It is a dry oil that absorbs quickly. Pomegranate is a well-known source of antioxidants, and so is its oil. It makes a great addition to sunscreen formulations and whenever anti-aging properties are needed. Use at a 10 percent ratio in your formulations, especially when they are destined for dry, mature skin, as well as for irritated, sun-damaged skin.

Pumpkin Seed Oil

From the seeds of pumpkin, Cucurbita pepo, this green gold oil is rich in vitamins A and C and in zinc. It is also a great source of omega-3 and omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids, mainly linoleic and oleic acid, as well as antioxidants and sterols.

Red Raspberry Seed Oil

Like most berries, raspberries, Rubus idaeus, are high in antioxidants. The oil has UV-filtering capabilities and is, therefore, a suitable oil to include in sunscreens. It is also rich in the antioxidant vitamin E, as well as the rejuvenating vitamin A. Red raspberry oil is also a good source of polyunsaturated fatty acids such as linoleic, alpha-linolenic, and oleic acids. Although it could be used undiluted, it is most commonly included at a 5“10 percent ratio in skin preparations.

Rice Bran Oil

This oil is obtained from the bran of the rice kernel, Oryza sativa. This emollient oil is used as a skin moisturizer. It is rich in vitamin E and other antioxidants. It is also capable of absorbing UV light and makes a great oil to incorporate in sunscreens. It is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic, and palmitic acids. It could be used to replace nut oils when allergies are a concern. The recommended usage ratio ranges from 5 percent to 100 percent.

Rosehip Oil

This oil is obtained mainly from the seeds of wild rose bushes, Rosa mosqueta (also known as Rosa rubiginosa). This amber-colored oil is recognized as one of the richest cosmetic oils. It contains up to 80 percent polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids, as well as vitamins A and C. It is also high in lycopene, which is a natural antioxidant found in tomatoes and watermelon. Rosehip oil helps with skin regeneration; improves the appearance of scars; reduces wrinkles, especially around the eyes and mouth; and protects from sun damage. It makes a good choice for dry, mature skin. It is most commonly used at a 10 percent ratio but could be used up to 100 percent because it is very gentle and affordable.

Safflower Oil

Pressed from the seeds of the safflower plant, Carthamus tinctorius, this oil is extremely high in oleic and linoleic acids and makes a potent skin moisturizer. Its emollient properties prevent moisture loss from the skin surface. It is also rich in vitamin E, an antioxidant that protects the skin from sun damage and prevents premature aging.

Sesame Oil

This oil is pressed from the seeds of the sesame plant, Sesamum indicum. Sesame oil is rich in numerous vitamins and minerals and high in vitamin E, which contributes to its anti-aging properties. It also contains the antioxidant sesamol. Sesame paste (also known as tahini) has a very high oil content and is widely used in Mediterranean cuisine, such as hummus. The oil is approved for commercial use in sunscreens because it helps block some UV rays. It is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids, mostly linoleic acid. Use this oil in a 10“15 percent dilution, up to 100 percent. Because of the heaviness of this oil, it is usually diluted with other oils, but it can be used as-is for around the eyes to reduce wrinkles and restore normal hydration.

Sunflower Oil

Cold-pressed from the seeds of the sunflower, Helianthus annus, this oil is widely used for culinary purposes but can be very useful as a cosmetic ingredient in formulations destined for dry, weathered skin. Because it is so gentle, sunflower oil is recommended for sensitive and delicate skin. It is high in oleic acid and provides good amounts of vitamin A and E, which makes it a great oil for mature skin.

Tomato Seed Oil

From the seeds of the tomato, Solanum Lycopersicum, this oil is very high in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. It also contains the antioxidant lycopene. It is especially recommended for mature, sun-damaged, and dehydrated skin types.

Walnut Oil

Pressed from walnuts, Juglans regia, this oil has demonstrated multiple valuable properties. It is high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, with an interesting 1:5 ratio of omega-3 to omega-6; various vitamins and minerals, such as vitamin B complex, manganese, and phosphorus; as well as some antioxidants. Walnut oil is an oil of choice for mature skin: It fights wrinkles, moisturizes and soothes inflammation. Recommended usage level is 10“15 percent.

Wheat Germ Oil

This oil is extracted from the germ of the common wheat plant, Triticum Vulgare. It is exceptionally high in vitamin E, with an average content of 255 milligrams per 100 grams. High in linoleic acid and mixed tocopherols, this oil makes a valuable anti-aging oil. Use for cracked skin, scars, and stretch marks, between 5 and 10 percent. Avoid in cases of wheat or gluten allergies.

Flower or Herb Oils

Some vegetable oils on the market are not actually extracted from the herb or flower named but are the result of the maceration of that herb or flower in oil that serves as a vehicle. Arnica oil, for example, is made by macerating arnica flowers in jojoba oil. Maceration will promote substance and scent transfer from the plant or flower to the oil, and the filtered final oil will offer some of the plants original properties.